When is it time to call an electrician?

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The dusk to dawn sensor may need to be replaced.  A very common issue here is caused by moisture.

Sometimes moisture gets in the outlet while your lift pump is plugged in. If the outlet cover isn't closed this can happen. Pretty common with current GFCI protected circuits. If the circuit trips again right away or won't reset, you either have water build-up somewhere or a wire that the insulation is compromised. Or a lift pump going out or is drawing too much power for a possible shared circuit. Please call an electrician to troubleshoot repair. 

Technology has caught up to our needs. We do install USB outlets on docks. They are rated for wet location areas. We don't recommend using them in an unsheltered area during bad weather, however, even if your phone is weatherproof.  They are sensitive power charging ports. 

Ameren permit # and the 911 address 

( current address filed with your fire district ) 

Dock owners are required by Ameren Missouri, who oversees dock permitting on Lake of the Ozarks, to have your dock inspected by the Fire District if any one of the following happens:

1- the dock is modified in any way

2- the dock is moved for any reason (including repairs)

3- If you sell your home the dock must pass current codes before your closing date.

There are 25,000-plus docks on Lake of the Ozarks, many of which have never been sold or modified.

Yes, we do. We provide all paperwork necessary for all local Fire Districts.

This is more common today than ever. With current local and national electrical codes, the GFCI must be installed at the power source. Whether it be single circuit GFCI 125v breakers or GFCI 240v breakers at your shore power shutoff at your ramp entrance. Additional GFCI receptacles, preventive measures will hypersensitize the circuit leading to false trips in the circuit breaker panel. So all outlets must be non GFCI.    

If your dock has GFCI outlets please consult us on an inspection.

Yes we install dedicated 30 amp and 50 amp systems. Depending how your dock is set up with the shore power disconnect, and sub panels will greatly be dependent on. We have solutions. 

The area in question would be thoroughly inspected by Connect Power. If there are no violations, we can secure a certificate of inspection at an additional cost. If any violations exist, they would need to be corrected. 

 All labor is warranted for two years from the date of installation.  Parts supplied by Connect Power, excluding light bulbs, and sensors are warranted for two years unless otherwise noted. Warranty on sensors and bulbs are 90 days. 

No, all estimates are absolutely FREE of charge. 

For your convenience, we accept MasterCard, American Express, Visa,  Discover, Diners Club and PayPal. All transactions are secure. 

A GFCI outlet is an electrical outlet which is designed to protect people from deadly electric shock. In addition to preventing electrocution,  GFCI outlets can also reduce the risk of house fires caused by electrical problems, and reduce damage to appliances caused by faulty electrical circuits. These outlets use ground fault circuit interrupter technology; it is also possible to install a GFCI at the  breaker box.

The way in which these outlets work is rather ingenious. The GFCI outlet monitors the flow of energy through the circuit. If an imbalance  between the “hot” and “neutral” poles in the circuit occurs, indicating  that there is a ground fault, the outlet trips off. Ground faults can be  caused by a wide variety of things, including a human being touching an energized part of the circuit, and this can be deadly. 

Take note of when your home lights flicker. When a large appliance like an air conditioner, heat pump, washer or dryer turns on, it pulls a lot of electricity, which can temporarily take some of the electric current away from the rest of your home and cause your lights to flicker. Sometimes an appliance works harder on startup

 Flickers of this nature are inevitable. With a properly designed electrical system, you can minimize flickers but not fully eliminate them.  

 The electrical loads at neighbors' houses can also impact your own  lights. In most cases, it's likely you share a transformer with several  neighbors, and because you share a circuit with them, their loads will  impact your electrical supply. 

* Some LED lights don't work with Dimmer switches. Check to see if they are compatible. If a bulb is flashing time to time, it is an indication you installed the wrong bulb with the dimmer switch. 

 Turn the breaker completely off and then completely on. Some breakers will look like they are not tripped, but could be in the neutral stage,  which still does not allow them to function as if they were completely  on. A way to help determine this, is to turn every breaker completely  off and then on. 

 This could be the result of a defective breaker. Replacement should be immediate as this defective breaker could cause serious harm to electrical components. 

 Yes. We will match the specific dimmer to the lights in your home. There  are different bulbs required for specific dimmers. Such bulbs include incandescent, CFLs and LEDs. 

  Conventional circuit breakers only respond to overloads and short  circuits; so they do not protect against arcing conditions that produce  erratic, and often reduced current. An AFCI is selective so that normal arcs do not cause it to trip. The AFCI circuitry continuously monitors  the current and discriminates between normal and unwanted arcing conditions. Once an unwanted arcing condition is detected, the AFCI opens its internal contacts, thus de-energizing the circuit and reducing the potential for a fire to occur. An AFCI should not trip during normal arcing conditions, which can occur when a switch is opened or a  plug is pulled from a receptacle. 

 We recommend a whole house safety inspection to understand the current status of the wiring. Some wiring that is considered a major hazard is:  knob and tube wiring, BX wiring, and a non-grounded system. These compose hazards on your home and if in poor condition, a re-wire shall be considered. 

 With experience in homes dated over 100 years old, Connect Power LLC can find efficient paths and ways to complete a  project in a safe, neat manner. Our company will preserve the beautiful  details and structure of your home, which in turn will keep the costs and heavy repairs to a minimum. 

 Most states call for 100 amps minimum, but with all the new electronic devices, air conditioning and electric heat, I would suggest 200 amps especially in new homes. This also gives you some space for future  additions. This is not a job for an unlicensed person to attempt. In most cases it involves replacing everything from the service loop (this is the wire that extends from the top of your meter to the utility tie in ) up to and including the main panel. 

  At the present time most states allow you to do whatever you want in your own home. But, doing electrical work yourself is dangerous and  could result in costly repairs as well as making more problems within  your home’s system. How much are you willing to risk to save money?

There is a reason why it takes so much training to become an electrician. Do not make a mistake by taking electricity lightly, even the smallest job could be a safety hazard. Why take a chance. Get a  professional to do this work.

In some states the homeowner can pull his own electrical permit for work in his single family home, what he does not know is that in case of damage or fire caused by his work, his homeowners insurance will not pay, they will only if the work is done by a licensed electrical contractor. You should check with your homeowners Insurance Co., and they should sign a document or something to this effect to acknowledge this when they pull a permit.

The most dangerous  time is when you tell yourself. This is easy. I can do it myself. Why  should i get an electrician? Then, when you don’t remember where all  those wires went or your hair is standing straight up, you say to  yourself, “Well maybe we better call someone to straighten up this mess.”
Now it will cost you double what you thought you were going to save in the beginning. 

There are three grades of outlet on the market. Homeowner grade, the  cheapest, is the commonest type of outlet for installation in a builder-grade home. However, they are flimsy and tend to wear out in  5-10 years at the most. When you install or replace electrical outlets,  go for commercial grade instead – these cost about 50 percent more than the cheaper kind, but the financial difference is insignificant and they will last 100 years under typical home use conditions. 

Hospital grade  are very expensive, costing ten times the price of homeowner quality,  and are really not necessary; they are designed for never-fail use in  medical facilities, for example to power breathing machines. 

 This very important addition to modern electric outlets is there to ensure your safety. It is a ground built in to the outlet in order to prevent contact between a hot wire and a neutral one, thereby avoiding  the danger of electric shock or fire. If you move into an older house,  you will need to install these outlets to replace the old ones. 

 This is a type of electric outlet that the NEC (National Electric Code)  requires to be installed in all newly constructed or renovated residences as of 2008. 

It is designed to protect children from shock and  burns as the result of their sticking small metal objects (for example,  paper clips or keys) into the receptacle. 

 When you want to plug several devices into the same receptacle at the  same time, a rotating outlet will allow you to rotate the individual  plug-ins as much as 360 degrees, so that they will all fit in nicely. 

 Yes, you can purchase specially manufactured weather-resistant electrical receptacles. These are subjected to extra stringent requirements and tested for their resistance to factors such as exposure to intense cold or ultra-violet light. 

 Switches can be illuminated for greater visibility, particularly desirable when a household member has physical limitations. In case of emergency, just flick the Emergency Hecorator Home Locator Switch and cause your home’s outdoor front lights to flash, signaling “SOS” until help arrives. 

 Both devices, either breaker or fuse, are designed to trip (turn off) in the event of an electrical overload, i.e. 20amps of electrical load on a 15amp circuit would cause a trip. The only difference is that a breaker  is mechanical and may be reset, whereas, a fuse is one time only and must be replaced.

 Please Note: Modern breakers are much more efficient and offer greater levels of protection. 

Surges are created by lightning or from the local power station.  Sometimes, a surge of electricity can flood out to the residents from the power station. A surge protector helps to protect your electrical  devices from a power surge. 

Usually, surge protectors are used for electronic devices such as computers and flat screen televisions. If you appreciate your electronic devices and want them to perform efficiently without having to worry about replacing them, you may want to consider  protecting your devices with a surge protector. 

 This overheating is a serious defect and could cause arcing in the breaker. It should be immediately replaced. 

 This is a normal process. Your electric company isn’t picking on you.  The electric company has regulations that will not allow them to turn on the electric if it has been off for over a year, unless a licensed electrician or inspector checks the service to ensure safety of it. 

An  inspection will need to take place to ensure that when they reconnect power no damage has taken place in the amount of time the power was off and no one will be hurt through re-connection. 

One of our licensed electricians will examine the entire service and make any repairs that are necessary if needed. Then, we’ll call a third party inspector to  pass the service. Once the service is passed, we will have the electric company reconnect the electric and you will be ready to go! 

We suggest a dedicated circuit for refrigerators. They have an extensive amp draw. They should not be GFCI protected like a lot of receptacles found in kitchens and garages. A dedicated circuit will protect your  freezer or fridge from being tripped and destroying anything inside. 

 Flickering may indicate impending bulb failure, minor power fluctuation,  and/or improperly installed bulbs. 

Cycling on and off is usually a clear indication of ballast and/or bulb failure. It is recommended when  replacing ballast to replace bulbs as well. 

 GFCIs should be installed in all wet locations including unfinished basements, garages, anywhere outside the dwelling, within six feet of any sink, kitchens, bathrooms and powder rooms. 

 One button is the test button. When it is pushed, it should turn off the outlet and all other outlets that are tied to it. The other button is a reset button, which is used to turn the power back on to the outlet and any others that are tied into the outlet when a fault occurs.

Most homes can be completed within one week. Larger homes can take up to  two weeks. You will not need to move out of the home during the process. 

 No, it is not a safety issue.  If the fuse box is not showing any deterioration or stress (such as rust, burn marks or melted copper). 

The majority of insurance companies and new home buyer inspectors now  require that older fuse boxes be replaced with circuit breakers.